After our goodbyes, we leave Abruzzo to return to Rome. It’s a scenic three-hour drive and we arrive back to the Eternal City content but exhausted from the previous two days. We stop to have a cold beer, which is refreshing after all of the wine we’ve been drinking.

Mieke and Umberto head home after we make plans to have one last lunch together tomorrow at the Enoteca wine bar. We head back to the hotel for a nap so we can be refreshed and ready for an evening in Roma.

Our evening passes quickly as does the next morning. Just before 2:30, we stroll the route to the Enoteca. We pass the Four Fountains, the Spanish Steps (in an earlier post I referred to the film Roman Holiday and it was Gregory Peck who stared with Audrey Hepburn, not Carey Grant. Sorry ladies.), the Trevi Fountain and countless other sites in Rome. We arrive at Enoteca and we’re practically a regular at this point, since this is our third meal here in the past six days. I love the staff, I love the concept and hope to bring some of this dining style to the Mansion’s newly renovated patio and bar, which will be, by far, the best al fresco dining in Texas. We are greeted by our usual servers: a smiling Italian waiter and a pretty young Italian woman who is also a sommelier. The wine glasses are already up on the bar and filled with a wine the sommelier has chosen for us.

Shortly after our arrival, Umberto and Mieke arrive on scooter, a popular mode of transportation in Rome as traffic is heavy and parking is difficult. We start with the antipasto misto, a mixed plate of vegetables, cheeses, salumi, olives, the sweetest roasted peppers I have ever had, and then the pasta, Bigoli, a thick spaghetti with a ragout of duck in a spicy tomato sauce. Umberto is in charge of the wine list today and he decides that we will go to Tuscany. We start with a white to match with the first course, which is rounded out with more pasta, tortoloni with four cheeses which is so light, tender and cheesy. Then we try the smoked swordfish and smoked salmon and pair it with another white from Tuscany. Everything is fresh and delicious – it is a wonderful meal. We have so enjoyed our time with Umberto and Mieke. They are so special and have become our good friends.  We hope to see them again soon. With our bellies full and our heads dizzy from the wine (and a gift of some grappa from Umberto and Mieke), we sadly exchange hugs and kisses and thank them for everything they’ve done for us on this truly wonderful journey. I walk down the avenue reminiscing about some of the moments we’ve spent together.

We stop in a gelateria for some cold gelato to enjoy as we walk back to the hotel.

Just as I turn the corner, a scooter beeps its horn and startles us, I jump straight up in the air and turn around, only to see Umberto and Mieke give us one last wave good bye, Umberto has a smile that is still frozen in my memory as he drives his scooter off into the sunset. Ciao, I miei amici!

It’s another beautiful day in Italy. There’s not a cloud in the sky when we meet Mieke and Umberto on the terrace overlooking the Adriatic Sea. We’re waiting for Rocco, and spot him ordering a double espresso at the bar so we join him. Yesterday was a great day and we laugh as we reminisce about it. Rocco tells us in Italian that we are going to head back up into the hills within the Masciarelli land.

We thought we’d seen all of the Mascarelli grapes yesterday, but we were wrong, there are more.  Today we have another tour guide named Marco, he’s an agronomist and is responsible for the care and feeding of all of the grapes, olives and land in this family empire – it’s an awesome responsibility.

We get right to the tasting even though it’s before noon, and sample some merlots, some cabernets and more of the prince, Montepulciano. As we roll through the countryside, row after row vine after vine, Marco shows us the method he uses to tell if the grapes are ready. It’s a combination of skin and seed observation, then he uses a brixometer which measures the brix which is the sugar level in the grape. The tool adds to his decision making to determine when the grapes are ready, but for the most part he does it from experience and feel.

As we tour the rolling hills, we begin to see more trees on the property, we notice the leaves are the beautiful silvery green of olive trees and realize we’ve arrived in the olive grove. There are four different types of trees, each one produces olives that create a distinctively different olive oil. Extra virgin olive oil, the spicy flavor-packed liquid gold from the hills of Abruzzo – you can almost smell it in the air. Marco takes one last turn up a hill and we park the cars in front of a large shed. Inside the shed is a press, a processor to clean and prepare the olives for pressing, and several filtration systems and stainless steel storage containers, very much like the ones used to ferment the wine.

The containers are then filled with nitrogen to retard the oxidation process while storing the olive oil. We taste the oil and talk about the process with Marco and when we turn around, we see that Rocco has laid out a spread of prosciutto, three types of salami, and some young pecorino cheese and, of course, more wine. This is all delicious bread, cheese, salami and olive oil all made just steps away from where we’re standing. One of the breads is made from the most aromatic flour called senatore de capelli …it is just flour, but it smells like spice and cinnamon. It’s centuries old and only from Abruzzo and it’s by far the most amazing flour I have ever heard of let alone tasted. It’s made in a brick with natural yeast from the very grapes we are drinking. The Italians have such a respect for nature and ingredients and I’m in awe of this simple but amazing bread. The prosciutto melts in my mouth like butter when it hit my tongue. We soak up the oils with the crunchy, aromatic breads and accent our experience with the bounty of Abruzzo as we wash it all down with the prince, Montepulciano.

This moment is priceless and I wish we could stop it. The view is spectacular and will be indelibly etched in my mind. Rocco takes my chair and moves it to the entrance of the shed and hands us each one last glass of wine. He tells us to look into the hills and feel the wind and remember us. And you know what? I will, forever. I’ll never forget this moment, this trip, the Masciarelli family or the region of Abruzzo. Arrivederci, Abruzzo. Mi mancherá Lei, grazie mille!! Grazie Rocco, Angela, Marco e la famiglia intera Masciarelli per il Suo amore, l’ospitalità e tempo.

After our two hour lunch we start our journey up and down the many hills and valleys of Abruzzo. In this mountain town over looking the Adriatic Sea, the air is pure –  free of cars, machines and industry. The Masciarelli’s land is spread out all over the Valley, which is why these grapes are very versatile.  We drive from field to field looking at the many vistas and sampling the grapes; you can really taste the land in the fruit.

Some of the fruit is kissed by the sea air, some by the morning sun, some by the afternoon sun, some are on top of the hills, some are at the bottom. This diversity helps make the wine superior. The grapes are tended to and the wine is made with a great respect for nature. The harvest will start in October and finish in the first week of November. They will not be picked until nature says it’s time.

As Rocco and Angela describe each plot of land to us, we can sense and feel their passion, their love for wine, the land, and what they do for a living.

After two-and-a-half hours of driving, surveying and tasting, we arrive back at the vineyard where the wine is made, stored and aged. We go through the various processes and learn much about fermentation, aging and how these wines are made. Some are aged in French oak, some of the barrels toasted, and some of the wines are aged in stainless steel.  Most of you who are reading this blog have already been to a winery, so there’s no need to get too technical. Suffice it to say that in addition to the demonstration in organic chemistry, we received a demonstration in gracious hospitality, passion, respect and integrity.

As our tour ends, we climb back to the top of the vineyard at road side, and as we reach the top of the stairs we are greeted by Mrs. Masciarelli. She welcomes us with a large smile and a hug for Umberto.  For the next hour, she extends her time and her hospitality to us, telling us stories of the passions, dreams and life of her husband and how he created this amazing business.  She lives just across the street in the villa where her husband was born, it is called Villa Gemma, a beautiful villa steps away from where their many wines are made. There is even a line of wine which is also named after the Villa Gemma which we will taste this evening.  

We say our good byes, exchange cards, numbers and e-mails so we can all stay in touch. As we walk to the cars Mrs. Masciarelli tells us to enjoy the castle, which confuses me. What castle?

Rocco gestures us to jump in the car and off we go to the castle. On the way we stop at a few more plots of land and taste more grapes and catch more views of the valley and the Adriatic. Back in the car and further down the road we approach a large fence with a lock on the gate. Rocco gets out of the car and unlocks the gate. We walk up the path to the castle, a 17^th century home once owned by a baron.

The view from this property is breathtaking; we tour room after room, many still the way the baron left them complete with furniture, art and even the children’s toys which are still in place.  There is a wine cellar with enormous barrels dating back to 1680. It’s incredible.

One of Gianni Maciarelli’s dreams was to convert this castle into a luxury resort for his guests and for people who are looking for luxury in Abruzzo. I think to myself – this might make a really nice Rosewood hotel!

As we tour the property, we enter the baron’s bedroom which has a private entrance into the neighboring church, designed this way so he could have a private balcony in the church. Some of the rooms have high ceilings hand painted with sparkling with antique chandlers. Some are currently under renovation – the dream of the luxury resort is about two years away, but you can sense how beautiful the finished product will be. There are beautiful views from the villa.  The gardens are beautiful. In one area, there is a 300-year-old olive press. The gardens have grapes vines, fruit trees, pomegranates, pears, peaches, vistas of the surrounding country side and a private family church. It is beautiful and makes me want to have more plants in my high-rise back in Dallas. We climb the stairs to the top floor, a suite with a 360-degree panoramic view of the entire valley and an ocean view with a small porch with an even better view.

As we watch the sun set on the valley, the sea grows dark on the horizon. Rocco tells us again that it’s time to drink more wine.  We retire to the dining room, still left the way the baron left it. We taste the 99 Villa Gemma- it’s delicious  – so smooth and balanced and made more so by the surroundings and the company. After a glass I halfway expect the baron to appear. This has been an incredible day, but it’s far from over. After we finish our wine, we are on our way to a town by the sea for a seafood dinner and more Villa Gemma.

Once again the dawn breaks and we are looking ahead to a day full of adventure. This morning we are going to the country with Chef Umberto and Mieke to the region of Abruzzo. We will visit the homes, farms, vineyards, olive groves, olive oil processing plant and the castle of the Masciarelli family. 

The Masciarelli’s have lived in Abruzzo for generations. Mr. Masciarelli’s grandfathers grew grapes, but didn’t produce wine, so two generations later, after traveling to France and around Europe, Gianni Masciarelli came home to Abruzzo to make wine. His grandfather told him that he wanted him to make wine, but wouldn’t just give him his grapes. Instead Gianni would have to purchase the grapes from his grandfather. For years Gianni paid his grandfather for the grapes and made his wine. When his grandfather passed away, they found a stack of checks that he had never cashed. He didn’t want Gianni’s money, he just wanted to teach his grandson a business lesson. And it worked.

Gianni Masciarelli has not only made some of the best Trebbiano, and Montepulciano wine in the world, he has created an imports business, has been a developer, farmer and had been converting a 17^th century castle, once owed by a baron, into a boutique resort in Abruzzo.

Sadly, a week before we arrived in Italy, Mr. Masciarelli passed away suddenly at the young age of 53. He left behind a young wife, Marina, and three beautiful children. Despite his family’s heartbreaking loss, their friendship with Umberto is so strong they insisted on showing Umberto and his guests from America the world of the Masciarellis. For that I am eternally grateful.

This is a polite, gracious and generous world filled with family, friends and passion, especially for the wine they produce and the region in which they live. Our visit starts after a scenic three-hour drive from Rome. We arrive at the wine-making facility of the Masciarelli family greeted by Rocco, a kind gentleman of great grace and hospitality. We are also greeted by Angela, she, too, is amazing and she speaks English as well which is going to make my day a lot easier!

Rocco tells us we must first have lunch as the day would be long, so we are whisked off to an old restaurant called Torre di Pretoro which is literally carved into the mountain side. The room we sit in for lunch is surrounded by the carved walls of the mountain. The granite walls naturally cool the room. Who need air conditioning when you can carve your restaurant out of a mountain?

The chef there is a sweet Italian woman who is a real nonna. We begin with, zucca three ways: blossoms with anchovy and fresh pecorino; grilled and stacked with tomato and mozzarella; and baked with a scrambled farm fresh egg. We pair this with one of the Trebbiano d’ Abruzzo wines, which are so balanced, so special and unique in the world of white wine making.  We move on to the spaghetti a la guitarra, thin pasta cut with an old world hand cutter called the guitarra, the guitar. This pasta has thin strips of green squash, olive oil, herbs and some of the freshest ricotta cheese I have ever had, more Trebbiano –  this one rounder and smoother with a slight touch of mineral.  Then the star of the show comes — the cannelloni. I can still taste its gentle soft pasta filled with veal ragout, borage and parmesan cheese topped with the richest, lightest and most amazing tomato sauce that I have ever had, then finished with some fresh basil.

The cannelloni is paired with a Montepulciano, the prince of Abruzzo, one of many we would try that day.  I look at Umberto he looks at me at the same time –without words only gestures, we agree that the basil with the cannelloni is genius. This lunch is proof that simple and fresh are all you need. Everything on the table is “0 kilometers,” which means that everything is all from the land surrounding us. Everything we are eating is produced here in Abruzzo, literally yards away.

We finish with roast leg of lamb with fresh rosemary, roasted potatoes and, of course, more Montepulciano. We are then offered Neapolitan coffee and some small homemade cookies. I don’t think I have ever had a better Italian meal, so filled with love, passion, technique, local ingredients, simplicity and integrity –  this meal was pure. We toast one more time to the passion and memory of a great man  - Bravo Gianni!

Now it’s time to leave. We hug our chef and express our appreciation to her. She is so sweet and so happy to please us, we say good bye and gaze at the valley below. It’s now time to see the grapes and learn how the wine is made. Didn’t I tell you it was going to be a long day?