Still in Spain for another day, I’ve been to two of the best restaurants in San Sebastian, Akelare and my favorite, Mugaritz, it is now time to visit the granddaddy of them all Arzak. This is a Michelin 3-star restaurant with a legendary chef along with the chef’s daughter, Elena Arzak, who is now in charge of running the kitchen.

Off we go in to the dusk, sun setting, top down, appetite in tact, yet another journey in the direction of the unknown, down the auto route toward San Sebastian, except no mountains or sea this time, this one is in the center of the town across the second bridge (which I now know to be the second bridge and by my count was really the 3^rd bridge but what do I know I am from Dallas?) more on that later.

We venture into town off the auto route, desperately trying to follow the vague Google map on my BlackBerry, driving in circles, I am being the typical male, too proud to make the  call to the restaurant.

I finally break down and make the call in broken Spanish and ask for directions, the polite man on the phone asks me where I am? If I knew where I was, I wouldn’t be calling, gracias. I say I don’t know so he tells me to call back in 15 minutes when someone who speaks English will arrive.

After four frustrating phone calls and countless circles around town and trips over bridges, we come across a festival with marching bands and crowds of proud Spaniards in full motion – motion that is further preventing me from getting where I want to go. At this point I am ready to pack it in and go get some pizza. 

But I’m not a quitter and my love of food and the quest for new fire are more powerful than my NY Irish temper …..Finally I get to the correct instructions it turns out I should have turned on the second bridge (which was really the first bridge). I just quit trying to make this make sense and I just drive.

Finally, we arrive 40 minutes late and enter the legendary hallway. It looks old on the outside but the inside shows a cool, modern reception area. I apologize for my numerous phone calls and my tardiness and then we proceed to retrieve my reservation. After several minutes of looking through the book they say “Oh yes, Tesar.” I don’t feel quite as welcome here.  I think it was punishment for the phone calls I made earlier. I am starting to get an uneasy feeling but we are seated and the events of the evening begin

The usual amenities appear – canapés, champagne and then the question:  Ala carte or the chef’s tasting menu. Of course we select the tasting menu each with a choice of different proteins: one lobster the other langoustine; one sole the other monk fish; one squab the other lamb.  I order a nice Muga this from Rioja, a Spanish gem which is 100 percent tempernillo 03. (OK, Scott how did I do? Happy Birthday and congrats on a well-deserved, most excellent victory in Austin….. just curious what a real expert thinks on my wine choice!)

Our som decants the wine and tells me to let it sit. This baby has mucho earth but it’s oh so tasty!

As the courses start to arrive, the food looks good and has flavor but by this time in our journey we have been spoiled by the excellence of our two pervious experiences, and we feel that this restaurant seems to be resting on its laurels.

I am sorry to say I am not impressed. The food is well prepared and well presented but lacks passion and soul. Service is completely off. Our server forgets to mark our table prior to the arrival of the next course. Doing that once, I could understand — but not four times in a row, after all, this is a 3- star restaurant.  As I  finish my cheese course I look across the dining room and see the chef coming towards our table. Throughout my travels, one of the experiences I enjoy the most is meeting the chefs at these amazing restaurants.  Juan Mari is a legendary chef and a key person in the development of modern Spanish-Basque cuisine. He’s a larger than life character and he approaches our table.

“Good evening,” he says in perfect English, “where are you from?” I tell him Dallas and I’m pretty sure I see him rolling his eyes, mentally dismissing us as tourists. As he is about to walk away, I add that I’m originally from New York and I am a chef. I read off some of my past experiences as a chef and, of course, mention that I am now at the Mansion. He seems disinterested and, now, so am I. Arzak seems to have rested on its laurels. I’m not sure why because all of the elements are there – great location, great chef, great food – but it’s just off. Maybe they were just out of sync that night.  We know it happens in the restaurant business. This has been a great experience for me to see how a guest feels when he or she isn’t warmly greeted and treated by the chef and staff.  It’s no fun. I silently vow to do everything in my power to make sure guests don’t have the same kind of experience at the Mansion.

This was one of the most disappointing dining experiences in my life. But it’s actually not a bad thing. It’s a good reminder to always remember your passions.  If you are lucky to be talented and successful try, remain humble and focused and remember that a good restaurant is nothing more than a great team of people. The rules don’t change just because you have skills  - you’re only as good as your team and the Chef is nothing more than the leader of that team.

I realize in this moment what a great team of people I really have and how they make what I do possible! 

After the wonderful meal at Mugaritz, we decided to take a day off from the Olympics of serious dining and stay around town.  It’s a rainy day here on the beach. The wind is howling and it is somewhat chilly, but much better then 105-degrees-in-the-shade back home. I almost feel guilty that I’m wearing a jacket in August, in Spain, eating the best food in the world and my wonderful kitchen crew at the Mansion is sweating through the week. I appreciate the people I work with more than I can say.  Their talent and passion for excellence allows me to take this trip so I can bring more ideas back to the kitchen.  If you’re reading this guys and gals — THANK YOU many times over.

Today is a laid back day. We shop the many stores, walk to the light house and stroll around the beaches. I go for a run in the hills feeling like Pre (I wish!) — just running and running, the views of the ocean are breathtaking. After a good hour and a half run, it’s back to town for some lunch. We hit a local spot where we order up a warm goat cheese salad. All the greens are from the farmers market almost every small restaurant shops daily. If you get up early enough you can see a line of small white vans and carts from all local restaurants picking out the days fare from the town’s central market. Time for the next course: a good brick-oven pizza covered with the cheeses of the region and, of course, a small bottle of rose.

 Between the long run and lunch, I’m exhausted and return to the hotel to take a long nap —  the jet lag needs one more dose of sleep.  And sleep I did – the next thing I know it is 9:30 at night, and I wake with a loud boom that sounds like it’s directly over head. At first I think we are being attacked but I gaze out of the window to see the most amazing fire works display! 45 minutes of spectacular explosions and colors over the ocean  - both sides of the bay exploding in the night sky. This event gives the Macy’s 4th of July show a run for its money. I have never been so close to fireworks like this! it was an amazing sight and quite an alarm clock as well.

Inspired by the display of pyrotechnics, I head off to the local bistro for a simple steak frite and a glass of red wine.   As I eat my steak I gaze at the now-moonlit ocean. The waves are huge from today’s winds and I know the sun has to come out sooner than later so it is  back to sleep and thoughts of the morning’s surf. I am truly blessed.